Author Archives: Tom McHugh

Fort Crown Point

1759, Essex County, Crown Point, New York

Barracks at Fort Crown Point

Barracks at Fort Crown Point

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General Jeffrey Amherst began building the fortress in 1759. This impressive fort, when completed and garrisoned, was seven times the size of the old French fort on the site (Fort St. Frederic), and was the largest British fortress in colonial America. The main fort was pentagon shaped with bastions situated at each point. Located inside the fortress were a number of stone barracks and officer’s quarters.

Earthen ramparts faced with logs, ditches and cleared fields of fire covered about seven acres and mounted 105 cannons. The entire fortification complex, including redoubts, blockhouses and redans, covered over 3.5 square miles. Located to the East was Grenadiers Redoubt, to the South East was the Light Infantry of Regiment’s Redoubt, and to the South West was General Gages’ Redoubt.

A major fire destroyed much of the fort in April 1773. During the Revolutionary War, General Benedict Arnold made repairs and used some of the barracks. American troops occupied the Grenadier’s Redoubt and constructed another small fortification in that area.

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Fort St. Frederic:

Strategic location of Fort Crown Point

Strategic location of Fort Crown Point

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In 1734 France began construction of a fort at Crown Point; this was the first substantial fortification in the Champlain Valley.

From 1734-1755 France maintained complete control of the Champlain Valley. Fort St. Frederic controlled the narrows between Crown Point on what is now the New York side of Lake Champlain and Chimney Point in what is now Addison, Vermont.

Charles de Beauhamois, Governor of New France (Canada), actively encouraged settlement around Fort St. Frederic, and created a French community around the fort. This combined military and civilian presence blocked British expansion. In 1759 about 12,000 British regulars and provincial troops captured the fort. Following the French retreat from Crown Point in 1759, General Amherst embarked upon an ambitions plan to secure the area for Britain.

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Fort Crown Point:

Fort Crown Point

Fort Crown Point

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The British immediately began construction of “His Majesty’s Fort of Crown Point,” as well as three redoubts and a series of blockhouses and redans, all interconnected by a network of roads. The fortification complex covered over three and one-half square miles, making it one of the most ambitious military engineering projects undertaken by the British in colonial North America.

An elaborate system of fortifications was begun on the point. At times, as many as 3000 soldiers and artisans were engaged in the construction of Fort Crown Point, three smaller forts, called redoubts, several block houses, store houses, gardens and military roads. A village grew up close to the Fort wall with a tavern, store, apothecary shop, and the home of soldiers families and retired officers.

When control of Canada passed to Britain, at the end of the French and Indian War in 1763, construction ceased leaving one barracks building unfinished. Lake Champlain became a vital highway linking two diverse regions of British North America. Crown Point, located midway between Albany and Montreal, became the center of communication between New York and Canada.

In April 1773, a chimney fire spread from the soldier’s barracks on the log walls of the fort and resulted in the explosion of the powder magazine and the virtual destruction of the main fort.

Troop strength at Crown Point was gradually reduced until only a small garrison remained to surrender the fort to American rebel troops commanded by Seth Warner in May of 1775.

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Fort Crown Point during the American Revolution:

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At the outbreak of the American Revolution, the rebellious colonists looked to Crown Point to aid their cause.

The surrender of Fort Crown Point to American rebel troops commanded by Seth Warner in May of 1775 yielded 114 pieces of cannon and heavy ordnance sorely needed by the Americans. Colonel Henry Knox carried twenty-nine of these to Boston during that winter to force the British out of the city.

On May 23, 1775, Fort Crown Point was the meeting place for Ethan Allen, the Green Mountain Boys, Benedict Arnold and his small American Navy. Ethan Allen was returning from an attempted penetration of Canada, but was driven out by British troops. A month later, the British would take Allen prisoner in another unsuccessful attempt. Benedict Arnold and his navy would assume control of Crown Point and Lake Champlain. A month later, he would relinquish it to General Philip Schuyler’s Northern Department of the Continental Army in a dispute over control.

In the fall of 1775, Schuyler and his army embarked from Crown Point with 1,700 troops for another attempt to conquer Canada. Beaten, they returned from Quebec in June 1776, to lie in makeshift hospitals at Crown Point.

In May 1775, Seth Warner’s American Forces captured the fort and Crown Point became a springboard for an invasion of Canada. General Richard Montgomery’s force sailed down the lake in August 1775. Despite initial success in Montreal, the combined forces of Montgomery and Benedict Arnold were defeated at Quebec in December 1775. They retreated in disarray, riddled with smallpox, to Crown Point. Men died by the hundreds in makeshift field hospitals and were buried in mass graves.

In the fall of 1776, Lieutenant-Colonel Thomas Hartley and the 6th Pennsylvania Regiment heard the sounds of the naval engagement at Valcour Island from their entrenchments at Crown Point. The American Navy, once again led by Benedict Arnold, ambushed the British Naval Force, but was eventually forced to retreat down Lake Champlain. The regiment at Crown Point also retreated southward to Fort Ticonderoga and Mount Independence.

While Arnold directed the construction of a Naval Squadron in the summer of 1776. Tripps fortified Crown Point in preparation of an expected British attack. Not until Arnold’s squadron was badly beaten at the battle of Valcour Island in October did the last American troops abandon Crown Point to occupy Mount Independence overlooking Fort Ticonderoga.

Crown Point was a staging area for the British in both 1776 and 1777. After the Americans abandoned Crown Point, the British assembled their troops here. Delayed by the American Navy, Sir Guy Carleton arrived here with his troops in October of 1776, but retreated north for the winter shortly thereafter. British General John Burgoyne’s army arrived here in June of 1777. Crown Point remained under British control until the end of the war.

The last major action to involve Crown Point was Burgoyne’s expedition in 1777. As support for his advancing army, a hospital was erected, a garrison of 200 men, was left at Crown Point that summer. Despite Burgoyne’s defeat at Saratoga, the British retained absolute control of Lake Champlain with the garrison at Crown Point for the remainder of the war. Their ships cruised regularly between Crown Point and the naval shipyard at St. Jean. Crown Point did not return to American control until after the Peace Treaty in 1783.

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South Hero Stone Castles

Stone Castles in South Hero, Vermont

South Hero Stone Castles 1

The Lake Champlain Islands are well-known for their water sports, fishing and spectacular sunsets but they have something a casual tourist (or local) might not expect… castles. In the town of South Hero stone castles are scattered throughout, but they are very small and are hard to find.

I remember driving along West Shore Road in South Hero about 25 years ago and seeing miniature castles, bird feeders, planters and fountains made of stone. I wondered why there were so many of these works of art in such a small area. Was this a local custom, or were they the work of one person?

Well, here’s the story:

A Change of Plan

Harry Barber was born in Switzerland and always had a strong fondness for the castles found throughout the country. After he was injured in a mining accident, and received a large settlement from the government in the 1920’s, he decided he wanted to travel to Chile in South America. On his way through France he was robbed, and decided he would work his way to the Americas aboard a freighter. The only one that he could find was bound for Montreal – a long way from his dream of Chile.

South Hero Stone Castles

After arriving in Montreal, he began his journey to Chile on foot, and traveled south into Vermont. When he reached Grand Isle he met a young woman selling fruit. She saw that he was hungry, and offered him an orange.

Appreciative of her kindness, Harry decided to stay in the Islands for a while. With the woman’s help, he found work as a farm hand on nearby Providence Island, just off the coast of South Hero. He continued to see the girl, and fell in love with her. They eventually married and bought a home in South Hero.

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Harry Barber’s Passion

Harry worked at a variety of jobs, but his true passion was always the castles that he remembered from his homeland. He created miniature buildings from local Vermont field stone. He was a passionate gardener and groundskeeper, and often loved to enhance the look of his properties by constructing beautiful castles, fountains and stone walls made from local field stone. The South Hero stone castles, of course, were all modeled after the castles of his homeland. He put such craftsmanship and detail into them, that he soon developed a reputation. Soon, he worked for wealthy patrons – building his miniature castles on their lawns or near their gardens. He also built a few fountains.

South Hero Stone Castles

 

Harry became truly inspired by his passion of constructing these castles, and tried unsuccessfully to persuade a local museum to display some of his work. But the museum turned him down, and told him they were not interested. Devastated, he committed suicide in 1966 at the age of 66. Though his motives were unclear, some say it was due to a broken heart. He deemed himself a failure after being rejected.

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The South Hero Stone Castles Today

South Hero Stone Castles

But Harry’s passion lives on. There are still some of these fountains and planters displayed on the lawns of several homes in South Hero. You can see examples of his passionate craftsmanship by touring the south end of South Hero, especially along West Shore Road.

Many of his original  stone castles in South Hero, along with his planters and water fountains can still be seen scattered around many lawns or properties. The exact number of structures he built, and the number of those that survive are unknown. Most are on private property, and trespassing is inappropriate;  others are hidden behind obstructions like plants. They are beautiful and unique reminders of a man with a dream and a fascinating story.

“Five castles, three houses, and several garden structures remain in the Islands. They vary in complexity. Some castles feature glazed windows, interior fireplaces, or dungeons. Others are wired for electricity and have the capability of running water in the moat. … All his creations are privately owned, and public access is not permitted; however four out of the five castles can be seen from the road.”   –  From a brochure issued by the Lake Champlain Bikeways.

South Hero Stone Castles

 

 

Other Articles About Lake Champlain Islands:   List of Lake Champlain's Islands

The Shelburne Museum

 

 

Shelburne Museum

S.S. Ticonderoga steamship

The Shelburne Museum

Located in Vermont’s scenic Lake Champlain Valley, The Shelburne Museum offers one of the finest, most diverse, and unconventional museums of art and Americana. Over 150,000 works are exhibited in a remarkable setting of 39 exhibition buildings, 25 of which are historic and were relocated to the Museum grounds.

Impressionist paintings, folk art, quilts and textiles, decorative arts, furniture, American paintings, and a dazzling array of 17th-to 20th-century artifacts are on view. The Shelburne Museum is home to the finest museum collections of 19th-century American folk art, quilts, 19th- and 20th-century decoys, and carriages.

Electra Havemeyer Webb

 

The Shelburne Museum

Electra Havemeyer Webb

Electra Havemeyer Webb (1888-1960), whio founded Shelburne Museum in 1947, was a pioneering collector of American folk art. Her parents, H.O. and Louisine Havemeyer, were important collectors of European and Asian art, and she, in turn, exercised an independent eye and passion for art, artifacts, and architecture – particularly that which was distinctly American.

Mrs. Webb exercised creativity when she began collecting 18th and 19th-century buildings from around New England and New York, which were used to display the Museum’s holdings. This required moving 20 historic structures to Shelburne, Vermont. These include houses, barns, a meeting house, a one-room schoolhouse, a lighthouse, a jail, a general store, a covered bridge, and later the 220-foot steamboat Ticonderoga.

She sought to create “an educational project, varied and alive.” A visitors experience at the Shelburne Museum is unique: remarkable collections exhibited in a village-like setting of historic New England architecture, accented by a landscape that includes a circular formal garden, herb and heirloom vegetable gardens, and perennial gardens.

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“A Collection of Collections”

 

Shelburne Museum

Colchester Reef Lighthouse

The closing of one of the Webb’s homes unintentionally gave birth to the museum. The question of what would become of her collections of cigar store Indians, hunting decoys, and weather vanes had to be settled. Webb’s museum quickly became a haven for the handmade objects of another era. A two hundred year old tavern houses one of the finest collections of weathervanes, trade signs, and primitive portraits on the continent. A rambling old farmhouse is filled with mochaware, pewter, and staffordshire. The finest collection of carriages and sleighs in North America rests in a unique horseshoe barn. Period homes, filled with outstanding collections of early American furniture and accessories, dot the grounds.

Rather than confine her eclectic collections to a single modern gallery, Webb chose to create an institution that would showcase her “collection of collections” in fine examples of early American homes and public buildings. The entire museum reflects Electra Webb’s passion for American art and design, she treasured a stunning variety of objects.

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The Shelburne Museum’s collections, educational programs, special events, workshops, activities, demonstrations and special exhibitions offer new perspectives on four centuries of art and culture, providing a museum experience unlike any other.

SHELBURNE MUSEUM
6000 Shelburne Road, PO Box 10
Shelburne, VT 05482
802-985-3346

http://shelburnemuseum.org

Related Articles About The Shelburne Museum:

Alburgh, Vermont – an Exclave

Alburgh, Vermont

 

Map of Alburgh, Vermont, USA

Map of Alburgh, Vermont, USA

Although considered part of the Lake Champlain Islands, Alburgh, Vermont is not on an island. It is, in fact, a peninsula of land that extends southward from Quebec into Lake Champlain. The Alburgh Peninsula (also known as the Alburgh Tongue) has the distinction of being reachable by land only through Canada.

Alburgh shares this distinction with only two other places in the United States – Point Roberts, Washington, and the Northwest Angle in Minnesota. Unlike the other two cases, this isn’t really significant any more since there are bridges to provide access to the peninsula from within the United States. These bridges connect the town to Rouse’s Point, New York, West Swanton, Vermont and North Hero, Vermont.

There is a fourth bridge connecting Alburgh to Isle LaMotte, Vermont, but Isle LaMotte is an island without any other connection to land other than that bridge.

Province Point boundary marker

Province Point boundary marker

 

Province Point, Alburgh, Vermont

Province Point Boundary marker

Province Point, Alburgh, Vermont

Just to the northeast of the east shore of Alburgh is the southernmost tip of a small promontory roughly 2 acres in size (45.013351°N 73.193257°W).The promontory is cut through by the US-Canadian border making the area an exclave of the United States contiguous with Canada.

An exclave is a territory legally or politically attached to a territory with which it is not physically contiguous. In this case Province Point is a part of the United States although it is not physically connected to the U.S.

Steamboats on Lake Champlain

Lake Champlain Steamboats

Steamboats on Lake Champlain

Steamships on Lake Champlain

Steamboats on Lake Champlain In 1809, about two hundred years after Samuel de Champlain first saw the lake that would later bear his name, the steamboat Vermont was launched. The Vermont was a new kind of vessel – not powered by paddles, oars, wind, or horses. It was the power of steam that moved this large ship around the lake. The Vermont was the first steamboat to begin commercial service on any lake in the world, and with its launching it changed the course of lake travel and began what would be almost 150 years of steamboats on Lake Champlain.

Although waterways were also used by sailing sloops, barges, and ferries, steamships proved to be the quickest mode of water transportation. With the linking of Lake Champlain to the Hudson River via the Champlain Canal in 1823 water traffic coming and going from Vermont and the Adirondack Coast increased dramatically. Steamships became bigger and more luxurious, though not always more comfortable. In addition in the early days of railroads in the North Country, steamboats were an essential link in connecting rail lines on both sides of Lake Champlain.

In 1825 the one-way fare between Burlington and Port Kent on the steamer General Greene was $2.00 for a “four wheel pleasure carriage on springs, drawn by two horses, including the driver.” An ox, horse, or person traveling alone paid only 50 cents. A ferry ride between the same two cities today costs $17.50 for a person with a car and $4.95 if a person is traveling alone (Lake Champlain Transportation Company).

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The Rise and Fall of Steam Transportation

During the early and mid-19th century, Lake Champlain became increasingly important, linking major urban centers to the north and south by using the lake as a thoroughfare. Steam powered boats provided faster and cheaper transport on the lake. In the 1790s, Samuel Morey, a Vermont inventor created a prototype steam engine for boats. There were also many other people, including Robert Fulton,  working on this technology at the time. After interuption by the Civil War steamboating thrived again, but by the 1870s railroads had become more efficient modes of transport and gradually caused the retirement of almost all the steamboats on Lake Champlain.

Steamboats on Lake Champlain

Champlain II – aground near Westport, NY

Steamboat travel was not without its share of accidents. On September 5, 1918, in the middle of the night, a fire broke out in the pantry of the Phoenix. All but six people aboard escaped. The burning ship sank off the Colchester Reef. The Phoenix was not the only boat to run into problems. In July of 1875 passengers on the steamer Champlain were suddenly awakened. Pilot Eldredge was at the ship’s wheel when the steamer traveling fast, ran right into high rocky land near Westport, New York. When second pilot Rockwell rushed on deck to see what had happened. Eldredge calmly asked him, “Can you account for my being on the mountain?” Rockwell answered, “Yes, Mr. Eldredge, you were asleep.” Some say that Eldredge had been taking morphine to relieve the pain caused by gout, and that this contributed to the accident.

Despite occasional mishaps resulting from unattended candles left burning in the ships’ pantries or sleeping pilots, people continued to use the steamboats on Lake Champlain in great numbers until they were replaced by railroads and automobiles.

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How do steamboats work?

Steam is water that has been vaporized. Water is heated until the liquid becomes an invisible, odorless gas. It looks whitish and cloudy because there are tiny droplets of liquid water mixed in with the vaporized water, or steam. When water becomes steam it increases in volume 1,600 times. The pressure generated by this enormous increase in volume can be harnessed to operate mechanical devices.

Steamboats on Lake Champlain

Image courtesy of Steamboats.com

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Power Plant

The heart of the steamboat is the steam engine. Many different designs and variations of steam engines were developed and tried during the era of steam ships, but the basic steam engine invented by James Watt was the most important design.

First, water is fed to a coal or wood-fired boiler, which heats it up until it produces steam. The steam is then fed into a piston cylinder; the pressure generated pushes the piston up to the top of its stroke. At the top, a valve is opened in the side of the cylinder  venting out the steam. The valve drops down, and the whole cycle starts again.

Paddle Wheel

Steamboats on Lake Champlain could be driven by screws like most modern ships, and some were. The typical image of a steamship, however, is of the  paddle-wheeler. These ships came in two varieties: the stern-wheeler – with a single wheel at the stern of the boat, and the side-wheeler, with a wheel at either side. These wheels were large and fitted with paddle blades along the outside. Motive power to the boat was produced by pushing these blades through the water. Side-wheelers could also use their paddles to turn by powering one wheel and stopping or reversing the other.

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The Ticonderoga

In 1906, the side-wheeler Ticonderoga was completed in the shipyards at Shelburne Harbor on Lake Champlain by the Champlain Transportation Company, the oldest steam company in the world. The “Ti”, as it was called, was the last steamship built for Lake Champlain travel. At 200-feet long the Ticonderoga was grand. It had a large dining room, carpeted halls filled with plush chairs, a barber shop, purser’s office, and a promenade deck. The Ti held 1,200 people and cruised at 17 miles per hour. For 47 years, this steel hulled side-wheeler cruised the length and breadth of Lake Champlain carrying passengers, freight and even the automobiles. First in service on the lake as a commercial ferry, she was later used as a tourist vessel until 1955, when the Shelburne Museum began the huge job of moving the steamer to its new home. The Ti was the last of the steamboats on Lake Champlain.

By 1950, the aging steamboat was no longer a paying proposition and seemed destined to be broken up for its value as scrap metal. If it had not been for the vigorous action of a citizens’ committee, led by Ralph Nading Hill of Burlington, the Ti would, today, be just a memory. Under the auspices of the Burlington Junior Chamber of Commerce and later, the Shelburne Museum, the Ti remained afloat four more years as a tourist vessel. But the problems of maintaining the old boat through autumn hurricanes and winter snow and ice, of cleaning, repairing and licensing the ancient boilers, and of finding trained crewmen, proved a losing battle. The decision to move the Ti to the Shelburne Museum’s grounds seemed the best way to avert disaster and to preserve the boat for future generations.

Steamboats on Lake Champlain

It took 65 days to move the Ti the two miles from Shelburne Bay to the museum. A large work crew hauled the boat from the bay onto a carriage fitted with railway wheels. Then the Ti traveled overland on railroad tracks. You can visit the newly restored Ticonderoga today to get an idea of what lake travel was like in the early 1900s. Call the Shelburne Museum for information regarding hours and admission fees: (802) 985-3346.